17-Days Souls and Whispers of Iraq & Kurdistan

Day 1 – Baghdad

Hey, we get it – Iraq and Kurdistan are hardly destinations you’ll find in the travel brochures. It’s cool to be nervous, but there’s really no need. There’ll be an ear-to-ear smile waiting for you at the airport when you touch down and you’ll be taken straight to the hotel. By evening, you’ll have a whole new group of wanderlust-fuelled ladies by your side to give you confidence. Dinner seals the deal in a spice-plumed medley of home-cooked Iraqi foods.

Included: Dinner
Accommodation: Noor Land Hotel (or similar), Baghdad, Iraq

Day 2 – Old Baghdad

“What’s that oh-so-lovely smell?” is something you’re likely to hear quite a bit this morning as you head down for breakfast. The answer: Kahi and Qaimer. Sorry, that’s all the detail you’re getting for now, but rest assured, it’s a tasty start to the morning.

Fuelled up, you’ll head out to feel the beating pulse of Old Baghdad. And when we say old, we mean it. This city has just had its 1,263rd birthday but it’s the more recent history that it’s known for. Yes, you’ll still see remnants of that dark past, but mostly, you’ll feel the new energy that’s bringing it back to life. You’ll walk through Souq Al Sarai, a frenetic stationary bazaar, then up Al-Mutanabbi Street where booksellers jostle for attention. There should even be time to grab a tea in one of the oldest cafes in the city before a fun music experience.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Noor Land Hotel (or similar), Baghdad, Iraq

Day 3 – Hit and the Iraqi desert

Wave goodbye to the city this morning and break out west, following the Euphrates River all the way to the ancient town of Hit.  Yes, those Al-Naoor waterwheels have been around since the Romans!

Then it’s time to get into the desert. This is going to be a real highlight. You and your fellow Patchies will rumble over the dunes to a camp set in a sea of sand. Emails, bills and mortgage payments fade to a distant memory as you enjoy a spiced chicken dinner cooked over a crackling fire. You’ll even get to sleep in shared tents out in the wild like a bona fide Bedouin nomad.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Desert campsite in Anbar Desert, Iraq

Day 4 – Baghdad by way of a ziggurat

Egypt has pyramids, Iraq has ziggurats. They’re basically colossal, stepped platforms crowned with temples.. AKA: Impressive. And built to bring worshippers closer to the gods. One of the mightiest in the country lies on your path today, in the form of the great three-thousand-year-old ziggurat at Dur-Kurigalzu. 

By evening, Baghdad will be a hubbub of tea drinkers and street kebabs. Dive back in for another night in the big city, where you’ll meet up with a group of particularly inspiring female entrepreneurs who are doing things a little differently.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Noor Land Hotel (or similar), Baghdad, Iraq

Day 5 – Babylon

Today is a big day, so you’ll be glad you spent last night in a comfy hotel back in Baghdad.  Come this evening, you’ll be able to tell friends back home how you followed in the footsteps of Alexander the Great. Better yet, tell them you visited the stomping ground of the mythical Semiramis – the legendary warrior queen of Mesopotamia said to have built Babylon’s Hanging Gardens. If you haven’t guessed yet, it’s time for Babylon.

Naturally, it’ll take up most of the day. The good news is that you only have a short transfer after, to the city of Karbala, where the amazements certainly don’t stop. Brush up on your knowledge of Shia Muslims (or let your guide do all the brushing for you), as you’ve found yourself in their holy city. You’ll see neon-lit mosques honouring some of the greatest heroes of Islam, and get to sample Iraq’s answer to fudge.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Burg Karbala Hotel (or similar), Karbala, Iraq

Day 6 – Nasiriyah and Chibayish

Your time in Karbala has to be as short and sweet as a slice of daheen halawa (you know, that Iraqi fudgy dessert you were devouring last night? Our co-founder, Mat, liked it so much that he had to be dragged away. It’s that good!). 

It’s just that the Great Ziggurat of Ur is calling. Think of it as the Madonna of ziggurats, the crème-de-la-crème of the ziggurat world. Of course, it’s a UNESCO site, but more importantly, it’s one of those places where you can stand and feel the full force of human history bearing down. You’ll stick around to watch the sunset at the great ziggurat – it’s pretty dang dazzling.

Then we’ll head off to meet the Marsh Arabs of Al-Chibayish. In fact, you’ll stay a night with them in a traditional reed house known as a Mudhif.  Hear that Patchie spirit whispering: ‘I’ll sleep on the floor if I need to – if it means I get to experience the real Iraqi traditions’? It’ll come in handy tonight, as you use the time before some shut-eye to swap your favourite memories from the trip with your fellow Patchies. And you’re not even halfway through!

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Local Homestay – Reed House, Chibayish, Iraq

Day 7 – The Mesopotamian Marshes

Wake up and nudge other Patchies awake if they’re still snoozing. You’ll want to be up for sunrise over the Mesopotamian Marshes this morning because, well…because it’s a sunrise over the Mesopotamian Marshes! That’s not something you get to see every day, and boy is it as beautiful as it sounds.

Tummy rumbling? Not to fear – that early start is rewarded with a local breakfast of buffalo curd, tahini, date syrup and tea. Yum! You’ll need it, too, because you’ll spend the rest of the morning exploring the waterways of the region. We could wax lyrical about them, but instead, we’ll let you in on the local nickname: ‘Gardens of Eden.’

But this is no hop-on, hop-off tour like tourists do. We’ll make sure you get your hands dirty. You’ll knead and roll Iraqi flatbreads and cook them up in a sizzling tandoor. You’ll munch on a type of chargrilled fish that only grows in these marshes. You’ll sit and listen to stories told by local Marsh people whose families have lived here for centuries.

Then, when your heart’s full and adventure gauges are peaking, you’ll head back to Baghdad for the evening.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Noor Land Hotel (or similar), Baghdad, Iraq

Day 8 – Samarra and Hatra

We know you might be dreaming of a return to the pastoral peace of the marshes this morning. Yesterday was pretty cool.

Thing is, we’ve lined up a duo of UNESCO sites today, and they’re rather special to say the least. Just wait until you see the twisted minaret of Samarra come into view. It’s undoubtedly one of Iraq’s most unique pieces of medieval architecture, and comes with a whole maze of lake palaces and mosques for you to get lost in on the side.

Later on, Hatra will take over. Don’t be fooled by the barren desertscapes you have to drive through to get there. There’s been a town here since Roman times and you’ll get to wander it, following the paths of ancient Arabian caravan traders under the gaze of half-ruined temples. More recently, it was a training centre for the Islamic State and one of the first major signs you’ll see of these recent dark events. 

As evening sets in, you enter Mosul, where platters of lahm baajeen flatbreads doused in ground beef, zataar, and spices await.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Modern Palace Hotel (or similar), Mosul, Iraq

Day 9 – Mosul

Mosul encourages reflection and symbolises resilience. For two whole years, one of the biggest battles against the Islamic State (ISIS) raged here, and you’ll come face to face with the destruction it wrought when you walk through the part of the city that saw the fiercest fighting of all. Something like 80 percent of it was totally destroyed and navigating the streets is a truly humbling experience.

You’ll see that hope always persists, when you encounter the incredible reconstruction of the Al-Nuri Mosque and its minaret. You’ll hear it in the voices of the local people you meet; people who weathered the storm of ISIS and the battle itself.

This can be an emotionally draining day, so take some time in the evening to decompress alone, or with your Patchies by your side. Mosul has some charming tea houses and kitchens that serve mujadara rice and lentil combos that warm the soul.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Modern Palace Hotel (or similar), Mosul, Iraq

Day 10 – The Plains of Nineveh

It’s day 10 and by now you might think you’re getting to know Iraq. Think again, because here are the Plains of Nineveh. This region has lots that’s going to surprise you – vast horizons, echoes of ancient kingdoms, farms of chickpeas and lentils that go on for as far as the eye can see.

Delve into the rich human heritage by sharing a hearty breakfast with a local Christian family. Over herbal teas and tahini, they’ll tell you the story of their corner of Iraq. Later, drop into Bakhdede, where you’ll see the largest church in the country and feel the pulse of a buzzing market town.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Modern Palace Hotel (or similar), Mosul, Iraq

Day 11 – Into Kurdistan

Wake up to sense a zing in the air. Either somebody’s spilt the baharat or you’re headed somewhere new this morning. An emotional goodbye to your Iraqi guide confirms it’s the latter, as Kurdistan awaits with its dust-swirling mountains.

We’ll join a new guide – equally fantastic, of course – before heading north into the territory and straight to the town of Duhok. This is where you’ll spend most of the day, getting used to the rhythms of the new place the best ways possible: First by diving headfirst into the stacks of dates and tahini and spices that make up Duhok Bazaar. Second by sampling the local food – a mezze of pickles, bean stews, and flatbreads. Delicious!

Then, brace yourself for a Kurdish showstopper, for the town of Amedi is like something from Game of Thrones. It caps a tabletop plateau high in the mountains, and you’ll zigzag up there so you can get lost within.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Khani Hotel (or similar) Duhok, Iraq

Day 12 – Monasteries, towns and tombs on the way to Erbil

Buckle up because today is all about getting under the skin of Kurdistan. It’s a day of exciting new places and things you simply wouldn’t see at home. Don’t believe us? What if we said we were going to kick things off with a visit to the sacred tomb of the Jewish prophet Nahum and a trip to a 1,300-year-old monastery carved straight out of the face of a mountain? Yeah…it’s hardly the usual coffee run.

And it doesn’t stop there. Later, you’ll head to the Yazidi Holy Temple of Lalish. It’s the epicentre of the Yazidi faith,  sitting on a mountain ridge between three great summits with its beautiful porticos and solemn shrines.

You’ll clamber up to the high-perched town of Akre for dinnertime. One of the local families there has offered to cook for the Patchie crew and they’re maestros with the spices, flatbreads, and warm welcomes.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Erbil View Hotel (or similar), Erbil, Iraq

Day 13 – Exploring Erbil and some local wine

You’ve had almost two weeks filled with Iraqi pyramids, camping in the Arabian Desert and sleeping in reed houses, so we think you’ve earned a slower morning. Head out in Erbil to explore one of the oldest continuously inhabited citadels in the world. Or just settle in for some people watching over a steaming mug of mint tea. Your choice.

Later – it’s wine time! And not just any wine, either. You’re going to meet the fabled Queen of Winemaking in Kurdistan. That’s Fakhria Elia, a woman who’s been growing grapes and crafting unique fruit tipples on the slopes of Mount Safeen for the best part of the last century.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Erbil View Hotel (or similar), Erbil, Iraq

Day 14 – Sulaymaniyah

You’ve got a bit of a drive this morning but it’s also a real window-peeker. The trip takes you right through the heart of the Plains of Nineveh and up to the edges of the Kurdish mountains . There, you’ll dive into a lunch of homemade dolma – stuffed vine leaves that you will adore by this point in the trip, we promise! You dine on the slopes of Mount Azmar. The view is a treat, too. Gaze down on the city of Sulaymaniyah as you chat, eat, and chat some more.

It’s then time to take stock and reflect on one of the darkest moments in Kurdish history. The group heads to Aman Suraka, a museum and memorial to the Kurdish genocide and the human rights abuses perpetrated under Saddam Hussein. It’s a sobering and enlightening look at the story of the region and its peoples.

You spend the night in Sulaymaniyah itself, where you can head out to feel the buzz of this big student city.

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Dawa 5-star Suites (or similar), Sulaymaniyah, Iraq

Day 15 – Farms, villages and hot springs

If you know us Patchies, you know we’re not content just doing whistlestop tours of cities. Day 15 is all about getting the most of the ‘I want to see the real side of Iraq’ Patchie curiosity.

Start by tasting your way through a local Kurdish agritourism project – it might be some of the best tahini you’ve ever had in your life! Then go to the village of Biyara, where you can stand right on top of the Iraq-Iran border. Then… we’ll keep the finale a secret for now. Just be sure to bring your bathing suit!

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Dawa 5-star Suites (or similar), Sulaymaniyah, Iraq

Day 16 – Culture on the way back to Erbil

Yes, the trip ends tomorrow, but put that out of your mind for another twenty four hours if you can, because there’s loads lined up for today. You’ll need your focus, too, because the plan is a craft workshop in Sulaymaniyah before a pottery-making class back in Erbil. With the help of local artisans, you’ll mould and bake clay into the best darn souvenir out there.

Then, and only then, will we allow a little bit of nostalgia to creep in. There’s a special dinner lined up with a Kurdish family in the city, so break bread and share stories one last time. It’s been a heck of an adventure, hasn’t it?

Included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accommodation: Erbil View Hotel (or similar), Erbil, Iraq

Day 17 – The end

There’s an old Kurdish saying: “A cup of coffee commits one to forty years of friendship.” Over the last 17 days, we bet you’ve shared many a cup of coffee and tea with your Patchie pals, not to mention plates of dolma, zaatar-splattered breads and soul-moving moments to boot. Yes, it’s farewell for now, but these are connections that will last a lifetime. Give hugs, swap numbers, and head to the airport in Erbil. You can start planning your next adventure from the departure lounge if you like!

Included: Breakfast